Before I turn east I am going to follow the ring road into the barren south, trekking along the largest and most voluminous ice cap in Europe.
Below the ice dorms the Icelandic Plume. An enigmatic hotspot responsible for the high volcanic activity which has formed the island. Eruptions from these volcanoes melt the glacial mass forming large pockets of water beneath the glacier, which frequently burst the weakened ice resulting in major floods.
Our first stop is Skeiðarársandur. It's a barren plain where the flow of melted glacier water grinds the south-surface of the island into the sea. The ring road is rinsed away on a regular basis and bridges in this area are ephemeral things.
Lodging here provokes a sense of affinity with Apollo astronauts who underwent geology field training on this tumoltous turf fifty years ago.